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Arnold Expedition Appalachian Trail Hike

At the Great Carrying Place where Arnold’s army headed west over land.
The Great Carrying Place Portage Trail.
Norm Kalloch of AEHS explains how they hauled munitions, boats and equipment over the ridge.
East Carry Pond, looking at the hospital site.
The group.
AEHS cabin on Middle Carry Pond.
New MATC bog bridges.
The A.T. junction.

The most recent of our Next Century Hikes was held this past Saturday on a section of Maine’s Appalachian Trail that is not so well traveled: the area between Flagstaff Lake and the Kennebec River, more specifically the Carry Ponds.  There are no high mountains on the A.T. here, and no side trails that go to other peaks.  There is, however, a really interesting side trail that was completed just a few years ago – the Great Carrying Place Portage Trail.

In the fall of 1775, Benedict Arnold – then a rising star in the Continental Army, and years away from becoming the traitor we think of today – led an army of about 1,100 men by sea from Cambridge, Massachusetts and then up the Kennebec River to the Great Carrying Place in what is today Bingham, Maine (on Route 201).  The army’s destination was Quebec, then held by the British, but first the army had to reach the city by the inland route since the St. Lawrence was heavily defended.  The route was comprised of portages from the river to the Carry Ponds trips in bateaux, flat-bottomed boats that were hastily made for the expedition, and from there up the Dead River to Lake Megantic in Quebec.  Unfortunately, the expedition was beset by trouble from the start.  There was a late-season hurricane, the route was arduous, the men were exhausted and eventually many deserted.  The eventual Christmas Day assault on Quebec ended in failure.

Fortunately for hikers today, the Arnold Expedition Historical Society has recreated the trail with 95% certainty up to West Carry Pond.  The route is orange-blazed and has a number of signs along the way.  There are a number of roads and camps in the area of the ponds and the route needs to be followed carefully, but it’s easily done for most of the route.  The Appalachian Trail runs with the Arnold Trail from West Carry Pond to near Long Falls Dam Road.

For the Maine A.T. Land Trust hike, we were planning to cover the route from the Great Carrying Place on the Kennebec River to Arnold Point on West Carry Pond.  We were accompanied on the hike by Norm Kalloch, a volunteer for AEHS who owns a camp in the area.  Despite his protestations to the contrary, Norm knows everything about the Arnold expedition and the land along the route.  As soon as we set out, he told us about the challenges the men faced, the context of what they were doing, and how the landscape we were seeing related to what Arnold’s men saw and experienced.  There were places where historic artifacts have been found, sites where Arnold’s men camped, hauled and even where they died, and much more.  Hikers can get used to seeing the A.T. and its environment a certain way, but with Norm’s help we were able to look at the landscape differently.  This is one of the things that makes Maine’s A.T. so special: the existence of trails, history, recreation and heritage all in one place.

The total distance we covered was about 13.5 miles, but this included a number of detours and anybody can hike any distance of the Arnold Trail depending on how far they want to go.  We didn’t quite make it to Arnold Point, but it was a wonderful hike nonetheless!

If you are interested in hiking the Arnold Trail in Maine, head over to http://www.arnoldsmarch.com/ for more information.  See you out on our next hike!

Trail Maintenance

New sign will be located here.
Conant Stream
Blue blazes
Last snow
More views.
Ryan, volunteer for the day.
Saddleback Mountain

The Maine Appalachian Trail Land Trust conserved the land on the east side of Saddleback Mountain in 2004, and there’s a recently-opened trail through the property to the Appalachian Trail in the section between Saddleback and The Horn (two of Maine’s 4,000-footers in the High Peaks region).  As part of the land trust’s stewardship duties, we send volunteers to help maintain the trail under the leadership of Maine Appalachian Trail Club.  MATC maintainers maintain and manager 267 miles of the A.T. in Maine.  Many of the land trust’s members, directors and staff are members of MATC.  Some maintain sections of the A.T. in their own right.

Maintenance trips are usually done 2-3 times per year, depending on the condition of the trail.  Both the A.T. (white blazes) and official A.T. side trails (blue blazes) are maintained by these volunteers.  Being a relatively new trail, the Berry Pickers Trail did not require much maintenance this year – just a few blowdowns and encroaching spruce branches.  The land trust will have another trip in September to tackle low-growing vegetation and generally check in the trail.

If you are interested in maintaining a section of the A.T. or a side trail, or in corridor boundary monitoring, you can find more info at matc.org.  This article is a pretty good summary, too.

Maine Appalachian Trail Land Trust Summer Trips

As we move into spring (finally…), the Maine Appalachian Trail Land Trust is planning our roster of summer hikes.  These trips are free to the public if space is available, and members get initial access to the RSVP.  We also lead groups on guided hikes – if your organization or group wants to hit the A.T. with us this summer, please contact us at info@matlt.org.  This service is free.  You do not have to pay anything to have your group to this.  Hike availability is subject to scheduling, however.

Here is a sampling of our summer trips.  We are aiming to have one per weekend, so check back when the schedule is up (a week or so).  If you have a request that didn’t make this list, let us know!

Berry Pickers to Saddleback and The Horn
Goose Eye via Wright Trail
Old Speck
Baldpates
Puzzle Mountain
Old Blue
Bemis Mountain
Four Ponds (early season)
Caribou Mountain (early season)
Piazza Rock/Eddy Pond (early season)
Sugarloaf
Crockers
Cranberry Peak
Bigelows/West Peak
Little Bigelow
Arnold Trail hike (early season, scheduled hike TBD)
Pleasant Pond Mountain (early season)
Bald Mountain Pond (scheduled hike TBD)
Buck Hill (early season)
Barren Mountain
Gulf Hagas
White Cap

Maine Appalachian Trail Club Spring Meeting Report

David Field discusses workshops for the 2017 Appalachian Trail Conservancy Biennial Conference.

The Maine Appalachian Trail Club held their annual spring meeting last week.  In addition to tackling ordinary club business – trail maintenance responsibilities, officer elections, etc. – there was considerable time devoted to planning for the upcoming Appalachian Trail Conservancy 2017 Conference which will be held right here in Maine.  This biennial event is a gathering of people from all over the country who are connected to the A.T. – maintainers, volunteers, past thru-hikers and more.  The Maine Appalachian Trail Land Trust will be a part of this great event.

This year’s conference will feature guided hikes, workshops, an art and land conservation symposium and more.  The event will be held at Colby College and registration information can be found here.  Registration opens on May 1st – sign up for this great event because it will be the last A.T. conference of this kind!

Enduring Heights: Maine High Peaks

The Maine A.T. Land Trust had the pleasure of attending a review session for an upcoming book by John & Cynthia Orcutt, who have been fixtures in the High Peaks, both for their spectacular photos of the natural environment and for their work in the Kingfield area in the Schoolhouse Gallery.  Funded partially with tax increment financing (TIF) funds for the Unorganized Territories of Franklin County, the purpose of the book will be to illustrate the beauty of the area and raise awareness for those who may not be familiar with the High Peaks region.  The book will feature images from both the Organized and the Unorganized Territories of Franklin County through a large-format presentation of about 80 fine art nature photographs.  Also, working in partnership with the Maine Chapter of the Trust for Public Land, there will be an essay discussing conservation in the region with several supporting maps.  Maine U.S. Senator Angus King, has agreed to write the Preface.

As one of the goals is to support economic development, the Maine Appalachian Trail Land Trust was invited to participate from a recreational tourism standpoint.  The book should be an important tool for economic development and conservation in the region.

Thanks to the Orcutts for their hard work!  The book will be available for sale beginning in the summer.

Cranberry Peak Trip Report

Heading out!
Nice hemlock woods down low.
Heading up to the Bigelow ridge.
Tricky going…
Flagstaff Lake to the north.
Furthest extent – Cranberry Peak just ahead!

The most recent Next Century Hikes was up Cranberry Peak in the Bigelow Range.  Cranberry (3,213 feet) is at the western end of the Bigelow ridge and is lower and more accessible than the higher, more rugged summits that mark the most prominent part of the range.  Still – on a winter day when the temperature is hovering around 0 degrees and the winds are gusting, it feels like a much more rugged climb.

Our group set off at 10am for what we thought would be a five-hour hike.  The winds were forecast to die down but as the day went on it remained breezy, especially up high on the northern side of the ridge.  But the sun was out and all were in good spirits.  A few of us had trouble with the hoses of our water bladders freezing up because it was so cold.  We were moving at a slower pace than expected, despite only needing traction aids and not snowshoes.

We reached the ridge and headed east to Cranberry Peak.  There were views through the trees to the south – Black Nubble, Sugarloaf – and to the north – Flagstaff Lake, the western Horn.  We stopped for lunch just a few tenths of a mile below the summit of Cranberry Peak.  After lunch we resumed and quickly encountered very difficult conditions.  The trail followed a contour line around the summit cone but it was very steep and icy due to the trail angle (see photos).  Moreover, the snow at higher elevations is still very deep and we were unable to find the blue blazes that mark the trail.  With more robust equipment – crampons and ice axes at a minimum – the group could have continued.  As it was, with the hour getting late and the shadows bringing the temperatures down on the northerly-facing ridge, it was quickly decided that we should turn back.

Though we didn’t make it to the top, we had a great day on the trail!  Check our calendar if you want to come along next time – we’ll be having a few more winter hikes with all the snow on the way!

Branding Maine High Peaks

Executive Director Simon Rucker talks branding, trademarks and the Maine High Peaks logo.

One of the things we stress in our conservation work along the Appalachian Trail in Maine is that the A.T. is not just a trail.  It’s a place where people do all kinds of things in addition to thru-hiking.  People mountain bike in nearby trails, they ride ATVs, they use snowmobiles, they hunt, they fish, they ski, they geocache, they retreat into solitude, make livelihoods, they meet friends.  They do even more than that.  People live in communities along the A.T.; the trail is linked to those communities and they are linked to the trail.  The same can be said about our conservation work – there’s no such thing as conserving a piece of land for a trail.  The land is conserved for the people who use the trail in all these ways can continue to use the trail.

This idea was behind the start of the Maine Appalachian Trail Land Trust’s High Peaks Initiative.  Through this program we became involved in an effort by community to brand the region as a means of economic development in Franklin County.  Stakeholders include local business, chambers of commerce, tourism officials, political figures, arts groups, local non-profits and individuals who wanted to get involved.  The land trust’s part in this process was, surprisingly enough, to acquire the trademark to the term “Maine High Peaks”.  This is not what a land trust usually does (but it’s not unheard of).  We did this because we wanted to help out a group of people who wanted to help out their community, but we also did it because we can see the connection between the Appalachian Trail and the local towns in the High Peaks.  This branding exercise will aid in economic development in the region, and that will include recreational tourism.  Recreational tourists will hunt and fish and mountain bike in the area, but they will also be hiking on the Appalachian Trail.  And without people hiking on the A.T., there wouldn’t be an A.T.

West Baldpate Trip Report

Panoramic from the summit of West Baldpate.
The Baldpates from the A.T.
Warm and sunny down low.
Still winter up high.
Chilly on top!
The summit of Old Speck from West Baldpate.

The Maine A.T. Land Trust’s latest Next Century hike took place over President’s Day weekend and featured a hike up West Baldpate Mountain (3,680 feet).  The snow depth in Bethel, the nearest measuring station, was 79 inches and there was likely more than that in Grafton Notch.  We hopped out of the car, strapped on the snowshoes and headed out with temperatures in the mid-30’s.

Our group was small (four total!) and we progressed quickly since the trail up to Table Rock had been broken out the day before.  The snow was wetter than is typically experienced at this time of year, and it was hard going nonetheless.  Everybody warmed up rapidly and there was some idea that maybe we should have worn shorts and less layers.  Despite the conditions, we made great time.  After the junction with the Table Rock side trail we were pleasantly surprised to find that the Appalachian Trail to the Baldpate summits was also broken out.

This proved to be critical as we reached the col alongside of Hedgehog Hill – here there were snowshoe trails through the open woods where a previous group struggled to find the trail since many of the white blazes (typically at eye level on trees) that mark the Appalachian Trail were buried by the deep snow.  We were able to stay mostly on the trail and reach the summit in three hours.  There, the warm temperatures at the lower elevations were replaced with snow showers, biting winds and bitter cold.  Lunch would have to wait until we retreated from the summit.  After a two hour hike down, we completed the hike in good order.  It was another great day on the Appalachian Trail in Maine.

Check our calendar page for our March hikes, which will be posted shortly!

Great Maine Outdoor Weekend Four Ponds/Spruce Mountain Hike

Taking a break.
Photo courtesy of Terri Marin. Great shot!
Making time.
Bemis and Elephant Mountains on the A.T.
The group.
Blue sky, deep snow.
Light.
Spruce woods.

The Maine Appalachian Trail Land Trust had a great hike as part of the Great Maine Outdoor Weekend, a series of events held twice a year focused on Maine’s outdoors and connecting people to the natural wonders of Maine.  The location for the hike, the State of Maine Four Ponds Public Reserve area through which the Appalachian Trail winds, was carefully chosen because it is not a heavily traveled area in the winter, the scenery is spectacular (as you can see from the photos) and the terrain is mild.

Since the Height of Land parking lot was not plowed, the group parked in a turnout up the road, and headed south along Route 17 to the A.T. crossing.  Weather conditions on the road were bitter, with temperatures below 10 degrees and with gusty winds coming off Bemis Mountain and across the open expanse of Mooselookmeguntic Lake.  Fortunately, once we entered the woods heading up Spruce Mountain, the winds were mitigated by the trees and everybody warmed up with the effort of the short climb.  Trail conditions couldn’t have been better for a snowshoe hike – there was a packed base of about three feet of snow, covered by a foot or so of fresh powder.

The conditions made for some spectacular sights and a great experience in the Maine woods.  We stopped for lunch where the A.T. winds along Four Ponds Mountain along the northern edge of Long Pond, and due to increasing winds and falling temperatures, we all decided to turn around.  Everybody agreed that this made for a great experience on the way back so there were plenty of photo opportunities and time to talk.

Thank you to the Maine Outdoor Coalition and everybody who participated in the event!  See you in the fall for the next GMOW!